ABI Key Skin Terms
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Adenosine triphosphate (ATP): ATP is the main source of energy found in all living cells. Without the presence of ATP, cells would be unable to perform important cellular functions such as cellular metabolism and cellular repair. In skin cells, the fibroblasts require ATP in order to produce collagen and elastin fibers.
Antioxidants: Found naturally in many foods including fruits, vegetables, nuts and nutrients such as beta carotene, vitamins C and E and selenium. Antioxidants work by significantly slowing or preventing the damage caused by free radicals that can lead to cell dysfunction and the onset of problems like heart disease and diabetes. Antioxidants may also improve immune function and perhaps lower your risk for infection and cancer.
Astringent: Ingredients, usually in liquid form, that helps remove oils and lower the skin’s pH. Astringents constrict tissue making pores tighter and appearance finer.
Emollients: Lubricating agents that are responsible for maintaining skin suppleness and a healthy barrier function. They keep the skin soft and smooth.
Exfoliation: The removal of dead skin cells by physical or chemical means. There are two main types of exfoliation processes: physical exfoliation and chemical exfoliation. Physical exfoliation such as facial scrubs and microdermabrasion require manual abrasion of the skin in order to work. Chemical exfoliations such as facial peels allow the chemicals to digest and remove the dead skin cells from the surface of the skin.
Free radicals: Free radicals are created by environmental pollution, cigarette smoking, pesticides and herbicides. They are unstable molecules that attack enzymes and proteins in the body disrupting normal cell activities and cell membranes causing possible cell destruction. Antioxidants have been proven to neutralize free radical damage.
Humectants: Ingredients that can pull moisture from the air and attract water from the dermal layer (middle layer) up to the epidermis (top layer). This increases the skins water content and hydrates the skins’ surface resulting in improved elasticity of the skin.
Keratinization: The process in which dead skin cells and sebum build up on the skin preventing moisturizers, exfoliants and other products from working.
Matrix metalloproteinases (MMP): MMP's are naturally occurring enzymes found within the body. Their main function is to breakdown and recycle collagen and elastin proteins.
Occlusives: Ingredients that help to increase the water content of the skin by preventing transepidermal water loss or evaporation.
Peptides: Complex molecules derived from combined chains of amino acids (the body’s building blocks) that help to rebuild, revitalize and renew the appearance of damaged skin. Peptides belong to a group referred to as "cell communicating" ingredients and by affecting cell receptor sites, peptides can help cells to function better. Different peptides perform different functions in the skin and body. For example, Copper peptides promote collagen and elastin production while Palmitoyl Oligopeptides help smooth wrinkles and fill in fine lines on the skin.
Reactive oxygen species (ROS): ROS are highly reactive free radicals that contain the oxygen atom and are produced when the metabolism of oxygen occurs. In low doses, they are very beneficial to the cell signaling process. However, elevated levels they can create cellular damage and apoptosis.
The 3 Main layers of the Skin:
Epidermis: The outer layer that acts as a barrier keeping unhealthy components out and holding moisture and other vital skin nutrients in.
Dermis: The middle layer that provides collagen and elastin allowing the skin to move and stretch while providing the necessary amount of moisture to the epidermis.
Subcutaneous layer: The innermost layer that contains fat cells which act as insulation making the skin look plump and full.
Acne Terms:
Acne vulgaris: The most common type of acne affecting people of all ages. It usually appears on the face and neck area but can also be present on the chest, back and shoulders. It can appear in many forms including whiteheads, blackheads, papules and pustules.
Blackhead: A non-inflammatory acne plug made of keratin and excess sebum. These lesions appear blackened near the skin’s surface. Blackheads are also called "open comedones" because the surface of the skin remains open.
Comedo or comedones: A plug made of keratin and sebum within a hair follicle. It can appear as an open comedo (blackhead) or a closed comedo (whitehead).
Comedogenic: Ingredients found in skin care products that can be irritating to the skin and can block pores, leading to acne breakouts.
Comedonal acne: See non-inflammatory acne.
Conglobata: A rare and severe form of nodulocystic acne that causes damage to the surface of the skin. It is characterized by a significant amount of deep inflammatory nodules, pustules and abscesses which are inter-connected under the skin by tube-like bridges. Scarring often results when the acne heals.
Cyst: A fluid filled mass that is usually benign. When someone has acne, the term cyst is often used interchangeably to mean nodule because of the resemblance of a nodular acne lesion to a cyst.
Follicle: A small opening in the skin’s surface where hair growth occurs. A follicle also where the sebaceous glands are located and where sebum is produced.
Inflammatory acne: In this type of acne, papules or pustules, red or purple macules, and nodules, often termed "cysts", are predominant.
Lesion: A mark in the skin. In dermatology, refers to a sore, growth, blister, or any other type of tissue damage caused by disease or injury.
Macule: A flat, discolored patch of skin that develops during the final stages of acne. It is usually reddish in color.
Noncomedogenic: Ingredients that are not likely to block hair follicles or cause comedones.
Non-inflammatory acne: Comedones that do not show signs of becoming swollen and are not reddish in color.
Nodule: A large lumpy, pus filled, frequently reddish bump that is lodged more deeply in the skin. They are inflammatory lesions that are sometimes referred to as cysts.
Nodulocystic acne: A severe form of acne that is often described as several deep, inflamed abscesses and pus-filled pimples covering the skin’s surface. These painful, red, boil-like nodules are often tender to the touch and cause permanent scarring.
Papule: Inflammatory lesions or pimples that appear as small, firm, reddish bumps on the skin.
Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes): Bacterium primarily responsible for the production of inflammatory acne lesions. They reside within the pilosebaceous glands of the skin and multiply quickly when excess sebum becomes trapped inside the hair follicle.
Pseudofolliculitis barbae (razor bumps): Acne-like lesions that occur mainly on the beard area of men of African heritage. This condition is due to ingrown hairs.
Pustule: A small, round lesion that visibly contains pus and is usually white in color. It is an inflammatory lesion that is sometimes referred to as a cyst.
Retinoid: A powerful antioxidant that is derivative of vitamin A. A retinoid regulate the growth of epithelial cells and encourages normal skin regeneration.
Rosacea: A skin disease normally found on adults, in which the blood vessels of the face, neck and chest become enlarged and cause the skin to appear flushed and red in color.
Sebum: An oily substance that is produced by the sebaceous glands in the skin. Sebum comes out of the glands in the skin and coats the hair follicles. Through the pore of the hair follicle sebum reaches the surface of the skin. There it mixes with other lipids and sweat and forms a coating on the skin. This coating is called acid mantle. Acid mantle protects the skin against bacteria and keeps the skin hydrated. However, if the sebum gets blocked in the hair follicle pores, acne forms.
Sebaceous glands: Acne lesions generally form within these oil producing glands found within each hair follicle. These glands are responsible for producing an oily substance called sebum.
Whitehead: Small, pearly white acne lesion that consists of a plug of keratin and sebum. Whiteheads occur when the comedo stays below the surface of the skin. Also called “closed comedo.”